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Salieri

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If you like a little drama with your dinner you won’t be disappointed by Salieri, where the decor is so cheerfully flamboyant it would make Liberace swoon with delight. There are swathes of crushed velvet and Venetian masks and tableaux painted onto the banquette seating. Salieri has been open for over 38 years and is well known for good old fashioned hospitality that has stayed fast through all the trends and changes that Covent Garden has seen.

Owner Sami is quite the legend and is a keen presence well into his seventies. He personally visits Smithfields and Billingsgate each week for the freshest ingredients and the proof is most definitely in the pudding. Or, in this case, in the Sea bass fillets with flesh as white as a diva’s teeth and accompanied by a sunny saffron-yellow bisque. And the Sirloin steak with beautifully marbled meat that sang of flavour. The steak had a darkly rich jus and the best chips I have had in a long time (I stole most of them from Robin, much to his chagrin).

We began with warmed Goat’s cheese with a piquant raspberry coulis; simple but delicious in that way that classic favourites are. We also had great Prawns the size of Goliath sizzling in garlic and wolfed down with glee. 

Pudding was a very generous Tiramisu that we shared, and there was Limoncello too, of course, because at Salieri they know that there is no better way to end an evening.

Salieri, 376 Strand, London, Map F4

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