Moti Mahal
The Grand Trunk Road is one of South Asia’s oldest and longest roads, running all the way from Bengal to Peshawar and this ancient route is the inspiration for Moti Mahal’s diverse and ambitious menu which changes seasonally to reflect diners’ preferences. The decor is the antithesis of ancient, managing to be contemporary, light and airy yet still intimate.
We were more than happy to follow our waiter’s recommendations for a culinary trip around the subcontinent. First up was Qabali Seviyan (vermicelli & masala chicken with pine nuts baked in an egg custard). This was followed by Paturee (pan-fried crab cakes & tiger prawns wrapped in a banana leaf), Sorpotel (wild boar stewed with chilli, cloves & garlic) and Bhalla Papdi Chat (crisp fried pastry & chickpeas drizzled with yoghurt, tamarind & mint chutney). Each one of these dishes had an entirely distinct flavour, and all were delicious.
It was a pleasant surprise to discover that part of the à la carte experience can include a wine to match each course. Each of these is chosen to augment the various subtle spice combinations of the dishes on offer.
Some Asian restaurants play safe with tried-and-trusted dishes for the Westernised palate but Moti Mahal chef, Anirudh Arora, has taken traditional dishes and introduced star quality.
The experience of dining at this outstanding restaurant cannot accurately be explained in words, you will have to try it for yourself. When dining à la carte you should expect to pay up to £75 per head including wine. However, there is also a set dinner menu costing £19 for two courses, £23 for three.
Moti Mahal, 45 Great Queen Street. Tel 020 7240 9329